Netgear WG511 External Antenna Modification:

Before I begin, firstly, I’d like to say that I have only seen 1 other documentation of a WG511 mod on the web, to date.

It also attempted the same type of mod as mine, but failed miserably. Apparently it screwed up reception, which “dropped like a brick”!

I’d like to point out that that mod was with a different design layout WG511. This is an original WG511 V1.

Secondly, this is a very simple mod indeed!

It’s just a matter of connecting your coax up to an existing Hirose (U.FL) connector, already found in the WG511 for testing purposes.

Although I haven’t had chance to test this modded card extensively yet, I have found a definite improvement IMHO.

YMMV.

If you follow this guide, you do so at your own risk.

I take no responsibility whatsoever for any action you may decide to take.

This document is intended for reference & educational purposes.

>--end of the blah blah blah—now on with the modding!--<

Here’s the card to begin with (note it is the V1 card, with silver antenna – all the other versions do not work in ASC) :

First we take off the plastic/rubber badge on the antenna casing:

Now we can see the U.FL (Hi-rose) type connector. This is fitted for factory testing purposes.

We will use this to solder the coax to, later.

Now we need to prise apart the small lugs on the sides of the card, to remove the silver plastic antenna casing:

Now, with the casing removed, we can see the antenna:

I used an SMA type pigtail, taken from an old AP.

I cut off the MMCX end, leaving just the SMA connector & about 2 inches of coax:

So, here you can see the antenna exposed. See the hirose connector?

That’s what I decided to use as a “fixing post”.

The antenna is a dual diversity type. The ground is below the top layer.

Then, on the top layer you can see the trace of the antenna. This is a sort of “tuned circuit” as far as I can see.

I decided that if I soldered the braid to the ground plane & the center to the trace it would disturb the tuned circuit of the built-in diversity antenna.

So, I decided to solder the braid of the coax to the outer block of the hirose connector.

Then the center core just pushed down inside the sleeved center of the hirose connector.

Note: the hirose connectors do not have any form of fastening, like a collar, etc.

It is just for a quick push-fit & pull-off for testing purposes.

So it’s not a very good idea to try to use a hirose pigtail, I don’t think.

Ok. See the hirose? The inner part doesn’t have any pin or anything. It’s just a guide hole leading directly down to the trace on the board.

So the coax braid must be trimmed back about 10mm, then the center core trimmed about 4mm too.

Comb & separate the braid into 2 parts & tin them.

INSERT BRAID PIC

The antenna casing will now need some modification to house the SMA socket.

Luckily, there’s quite a lot of room inside the end of the housing already, but the sockets can be reduced a little in size too:

The SMA sockets thread is 6mm wide, so a section must be removed from the housing.

Note, I’ve also ground out a small area directly below the “slot”

So now the SMA sockets should fit snug into the housing:

Next, the top cover of the housing. Here I ground out a small piece to help it to fit around the nut part of the SMA socket.

I also ground off the top 1/3^rd of the SMA’s nut:

Now test out the fitting by holding it all together with the SMA cable in place & make any adjustments!

OK. Now just cut off the pigtail cable to the right size to easily reach the hirose connector. This is around 5 or 6 cm.

Next strip back the outer braid & brush it out, then twist it into 2x “bunches.

Tin them to allow better soldering to the hirose connector “housing”.

Next, strip last 2mm of inner core.

Now just push the core in through the centre of the hirose connector

& solder into place with the 2x tinned braids onto outer hosing of hirose connector.

I think I got a bit carried away at this part & forgot to photo it!

If many people really need a pic of this I’ll make one again.

Cut a hole to house the hirose connector with soldered cable, as this will now stick out further than before, of course, now we’ve soldered the wire to the top of the connector.

This pic shows the wire soldered to the hirose & protruding slightly through the hole we cut.

Bend back the side lugs to hold the cards front & back plates together again. I found a pair of very long needle nosed pliers to be good for this.

Now just replace the silver coloured plastic badge that we removed at the beginning & screw on your SMA antenna.

Front:

Back:

Done!:

I haven’t bothered putting up a massive close-up pic yet, mainly because I don’t think it’s really needed.

It’s not like you have to find a particular tiny part on the PCB or anything!

All you need to find is the big hirose connector that can be easily seen from a few feet away!

I find a definite improvement on connection distances with this mod.

I only have the 5dbi rubber duck style AP antenna at the moment though.

I have a Yagi arriving in the next few days, so I’ll test some more then.